Sunday, July 13, 2008

Sue resting at Wood Advent Farm


A well deserved rest after a very trying day of walking. We had walked over so many sheep fields to get here and they were steep sloping fields. We kept walking in sheep poo and slipping down the slopes.
We met a couple from the Midlands and they told us about the 'old days' and the changes they had seen around the district.

at back of wood advent farm


This is the backyard view from Wood Advent Farm. Lovely old family home--it is still a working farm and the family carries on with their duties during the day. They serve family cooked meals. We had such a hard walk to get here. A local man walking his dogs gave us some good directions to cut out time but we did not take his advice and instead walked up a road from hell. We thought it would never end--it just went around and around straight up.

view on the way to lype hill

See the beginning of the forest--see the farm way down--well we walked from there and felt very proud. We did have to stop and ask local farmer what direction--up he replied--and keep going up.

paying the tree spirits


On our walk we came across a little bridge. Before the bridge you paid the spirits to enter the forest and to protect you. Sue was generous as she thought we needed all the protection we could get. She had all bases covered as she also gave to church donation boxes and lit candles and prayed to Coleridge. This section did remind me of the fairy tales where you had to pay to cross over.
What this post didn't say was that we were about to go up Bird Hill. Bird Hill sounds lovely. It goes on forever and ever--straight up. Many of the people we have talked to have commented on this section--even the Royal Oak publican who completed the walk in two days commented on the Bird Hill section. It was so beautiful but as with much beauty there came great pain and we experienced the pain and the beauty.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

dog story three and four

They have places to park your dogs near the stores. And they need to as people take their doggies to the shop. On our walk into Monksilver there was a sign on the post that advised us about a naughty dog who liked to follow walkers. If we should spot this dog send it home and say "naughty dog". Then when we got into the pub there was a sign telling us not to feed another naughty dog. The thing we noticed was the way dogs are so much part of the community. It was this area more than any other that really involved their dogs in all their daily activities. And even though they say they have 'naughty dogs" all the dogs we saw were very well behaved.

video of view from the hills

Monksilver Somerset

Not one of our shots but Monksilver seemed such a nice place that we thought perhaps we should have stayed here rather than Bicknoller---although we did eat and drink at the 'Bic' and so, apparently, did Wordsworth.

All Saints Church at Monksilver

Lo and behold--Sue on the ropes at All Saints Church, Monksilver. The builders (this dates from the 12th century) knew how to use natural light. Perhaps a blessing from Coleridge? More spooky stories later.

St. George's Church Bicknoller

A favourite of the many ancient churches we found while walking. Parts of the building of the church can be dated from the 12th century--it has a 1,000 year old Yew and, under the tree, can be found the old village stocks.

The Dog Pound -- dog story two

Lesley and I were looking for a 'dog pound' as per the instructions: that is, our idea of a dog pound, being a modern large fenced enclosure. We found it, at right--it is a 14th century dog pound (silly us), and one of the first in the country. All that is left is the wall and emblem of the dog. Easy to miss--it forms part of a wall along a track but it is a very interesting marker. Who would have thought of a 14th century dog pound?
This wall is actually before Alfoxden, the photo sequence is out of order here.

Lesley at West Somerset Steam Railway crossing

This crossing is just outside of Bicknoller. The railway is a privately owned steam rail running regular services in the area. We heard the train but did not see it. On Lesley's left is a 'kissing gate' --the first of quite a few of these gates that we climbed and crossed.

backyard view from bicknoller


This is the backyard view from the B & B in Bicknoller. We were lucky we even found it. We were booked in but there were no signs alerting us to the fact that this was our B & B. So we were just walking around when a car drove past and then reversed and said "The Australians". They then inquired if we were looking for their B & B. "The Australians" were very grateful that our accents had drew attention or we may still be going in circles looking for an unsigned B & B. Bicknoller is a small village that appears to have quite a lot of money. A very different feeling than Nether Stowey.

windmill inn--so glad

We were so glad to see this place. We had walked
for six hours straight and had no stops on the way. It was raining and there were stinging nettles everywhere and we had been lost and we were just about ready to sit down and scream--but it was too wet to sit down and then over the hill we saw this inn. Our first leg wasn't over but at least we could have a little rest before we went out in the rain all over again.

no longer lost

This is a cairn--it is a signpost. We could have done with this earlier on as we were a little confused in one section. Reason being: Wordsworth Alfoxden Hotel(where Wordsworth and Dorothy lived in 1797--Dorothy said the beauty of the walks was their wild simplicity) is no longer a hotel and has no signs on it. This messed up our directions as they said "go past Alfoxden Hotel". No sign so we didn'tknow we had walked past it. We were sitting on the hills looking concerned when a nice local man and his dog walked past and directed us upon the right path. Back we went on the right path. It was so windy up here and we could see all the way to the Bristol Channel--look way out into the background. After making our way through the forest this open space was quite a contrast. So much air it almost took our own breath away.

beech tree hedge

This is an entire path of beech trees. They are very very old and the feeling was amazing. I kept expecting to see a hobbit come running out, or at least an elf.

Near the start of the Way

The path begins to take us into woodland with banks of very old trees and we began to sense the age of the forest and the path itself.

The first marker--the Coleridge Way quill

The Coleridge Way quill in Brown and the Blue marker (the public walkway) became our saviours. The non-appearance of these markers meant we were in trouble. As you can see they are hardly large signs, especially when covered by stinging nettles, tree branches, and rain.

The first few steps

At this stage we thought it all looked so easy.

First view of the Quantock HIlls

Taken from opposite the church in Nether Stowey, while waiting for the B&B to open. At this stage we thought it looked like a nice gentle walk.

Nether Stowey video

This is the rear garden of The Old Housel, Nether Stowey. It was meant to be a photo but the very nice host Manor took video instead. His B&B was a great start to the trip.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The Coleridge Suite

The Coleridge Suite at The Old House, Nether Stowey, our first B&B. We did not stay in this room (we stayed in 'Sarah's' room) but this room is available for renting--and for wedding parties.
Apparently Tom Poole once owned this property and local lore has it that he set up a room in this house for Coleridge. Whether he ever stayed here is apparently not known. The room has a romantic (small 'r' and capital 'R') ambiance and a print of Coleridge on the wall.

Of Coleridge and dogs


In front of The Coleridge Cottage at Nether Stowey--which was shut. Aaahh, the delights of voluntary assistance to cultural tourism. So we went to the Post Office where Lesley was served by a woman, who had to leave her spot to retrieve international stamps--but who was quickly replaced by an imperious German Shepherd. The dog did a good job but barked on hearing Lesley's accent. This was the start of what became known as the Somerset dog stories.

Day One-finally we are at Nether Stowey

The plaque on the wall of the Coleridge Cottage at Nether Stowey. Opposite the Ancient Mariner pub (which we didn't frequent) and down the road from our great first b&b The Old House, a good start to the adventure.

Hampton Court

Tara (my daughter) and Giorgio ( my son-in-law)at Hampton Court Privy Garden. They agreed to go to Hampton Court with me because they know I love all that stuff and secretly so do they. Henry VIII had a clear view of this garden from his apartment window. He could see who Anne and Catherine were talking to out of his window.

St Paul's View

Somehow I ended up at St Paul's. I had high heels on but still thought I would climb to the top and take a picture. Good exercise I thought. Not a good idea--but I finally made it and the view was worth it. Lesley

Chelsea houses


Chelsea’s finest—a street of pretty houses we passed en route to The Builder’s Arms in Britten Street in order to recover from an afternoon of train stoppages.

Dubai Rooftops

1. Dubai-land, a city of great contrasts. The photo shows the view from the swimming pool rooftop -- the pile of old mattresses and rubbish on the nearby roof argues somewhat with the high rise. The skyline is dominated by cranes and the infrastructure for the rapid transit system is phenomenal. A highlight was drinking hot coffee around a roaring fire at a man-made indoor ski slope while it was 39 degrees outside. Lesley says ask Sue about the doona story.--'doona' may be used a lot more in Australia. Sue says ask Jo (Sue’s daughter) about the very friendly shop assistant helping Jo to try on jewellery. Jo and Lesley love the bling.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

walking coleridge

well we have finished our walk and the reason we haven't been writing as we walk is there has been no internet access. Do not fear as we are now working on all the data we collected and collated on our walk. very exciting and lots of photos. We are very proud of ourselves as it was a hard and long walk. We will put up each day's entry--watch this space.